Plaster coving stop ends meet

Main uses – Residential, matching plaster coving when remodeling older homes, This makes finishing easier by avoiding floating out a butt on a curve. We can put tapers (like factory edge of drywall) where the curved ends meet to avoid . Gyproc Cove and Cornice are available in a range of lengths and carton sizes. The paper and decorative finish between the wall and ceiling junction. Gyproc Cove is can assist in ensuring that linings meet their stated sound Stop-ends. Available in polystyrene, duropolymer and plaster from leading brands. Sheet materials · Finishing timber · Furniture board · Decorative mouldings · Skirting . Coving is used to add a decorative touch to the corners of rooms where the walls and ceilings meet. Gyproc Traditional S profile Plaster Coving (L)3m (T)83mm.

Even a small movement can throw the mitre join out and make it very difficult to get a neat job. As you can see, mitre boxes come with a straight, or butt joint slot for the saw, and two 45 degree slots for making internal and external corners. The slots have numbers on them as you can see. This is to avoid confusion when cutting, and believe me it is easy to get confused! Finding Angles in Your Room Putting up coving in a square room is a relatively easy job.

Where you have chimney breasts or other features to work round you will need to cut more mitre joints. If you are lucky, your rooms will be square, or nearly square.

When cutting coving odd angles will affect the mitre joints you need to cut for the corners. Angle finder to help you cut mitres for odd-shaped corners Place the angle finder in the corner of the room and find its angle by pushing it into the corner, with the arms against the walls.

Read the angle from the indicator. Divide that angle by two and mark this on the mitre box.

How to Put up Coving – DIY Guide to Fixing and Cutting Coving and also Creating Coving Mitre Joints

Cut a groove at that angle into the mitre box working gently with the saw and you will have the template for making this corner neat as well.

Use the same groove for cutting both sides of the mitre, but where you are using coving with an asymmetrical coving just turn the material over when you make the second cut; i. Fitting coving is not difficult. It is a question of taking your time and getting things set out as you would like them.

Fitting Coving and Cornice

Be prepared to sacrifice a length of coving as a practice piece to understand how the tools work, and use it to get the mitres right.

It will save you money in the long run. How to Plan your Room for Coving The mitre box is numbered in the way that if you are facing any wall, the right hand mitre is number 1 if it is an internal angle or number 3 if it is to an external angle and the left hand mitre is number 2 or 4 respectively. Do not be put off by any of this.

Coving Stop End Piece - Left Side - Wm Boyle Interior Finishes

Use your practice piece and all will become clear. Number the walls as described above and shown in these pictures below: Number the walls according to the numbers on the mitre block You need to make sure that you carefully plan the cuts you need, to avoid spoiling and wasting material. Measuring Up and Marking Out Measure each section of the wall and write it onto your room plan, you can also write it directly onto the wall.

Make sure that the piece of coving is sitting in the correct position in relation to the walls and ceiling. That is making sure the coving is equally spaced between the the wall and ceiling, with the edges sitting flush on the wall and the ceiling, not skewed or angled.

Measuring for Coving and Marking Walls for Coving Using these lines as a guide, mark along the wall and ceiling using a spirit level to make sure your line is level and straight.

Alternatively you could use a chalk line held between two panel pins at either end of the wall. These lines are what you will work to when it comes to sticking coving later.

You may want to offer up a full length of coving, to make sure it looks right by eye too. This is particularly important where you know that your walls and ceiling have odd angles, are not straight, or not at right-angles to each other. You can always fill gaps between the coving and the wall or ceiling later. Make sure you remove any flaking paint or plaster and any wallpaper from the wall and ceiling between the lines.

Use a Multi sensor and mark the position of any pipes or cables in pencil below the line you have drawn on the wall. If you are sticking coving to fresh plaster, paint dilute PVA onto the wall using a brush and allow to dry before you try to stick your coving up.

Fitting Coving and Cornice | Davuka

This prevents the dry plaster sucking the moisture out of the adhesive to quickly, and gives you time to work with the adhesive before it goes off. If you are working onto a painted surface, use a Stanley knife to score the area nearest your pencil marks to provide a key for the adhesive to grip to. Start with the longest section first. Check the width of the wall you wish to start on.

Mark the measurement you have taken from the wall onto the wall edge of the first length of coving. Cutting the Coving TIP: It is always best to start with the longest lengths first to avoid waste.

You will need to cut one internal mitre and one external mitre to join two lengths together in a straight line. A butt joint is formed by making a straight cut TIP: Choose a fine-toothed saw to cut smoothly through the plaster and avoid making the backing paper ragged as you cut.

Start with an internal left hand mitre: The coving will fit into the mitre box from right to left, with the wall edge facing up — so the material you are using is the left hand piece of coving and the waste material is on the right. Make the first cut in the groove marked 2 on your block. This will fit into the left hand corner of your wall. Mark the length you need for the wall onto the coving. Remember to measure along the wall edge of the coving. Slide the coving through the mitre box from right to left.

Make your second cut in the slot marked 1 on your mitre block. This will fit into the right hand corner of your room. Offer up the length you have just cut to make sure the coving will fit. Make any adjustments you need to then sand the ends with fine sandpaper for a neat finish. Now for the left hand internal mitre to fit into the right hand corner of our illustrated room. Establish the drop down the wall from the ceiling that the coving will be fixed at, and ensure this is clean and sound.

Draw a line around the room at this position or mark at various points.

Plaster Coving Installation - How To Cut An Internal Mitre

Ensure the line is horizontal — do not be tempted to follow the ceiling which may not be level if there is any subsequent gap, this can be filled later. At every mm or so, tap a small pin nail into the wall as a temporary supporting guide. For extra adhesion you can score the area between line and the ceiling. Optionally, repeat this process on the ceiling. Now, carefully measure along the wall the length you need — then measure it again!

Transfer these measurements to the coving, and if it helps, also mark a line in the direction that the cut will roughly be, so that when put in the mitre box you can be assured you are cutting in the correct direction. Make the cut, then offer up to check you are happy that the 2 sections meet. Using Decofix Pro or Decofix Hydro, apply along the entire length of the back edges of the coving where it will meet the wall and ceiling.

As a rough guide to coverage, a cartridge should be sufficient for m. Using the line on the wall as a guide and the nails as a lever, push the coving firmly into place, adjusting as necessary. Now apply a thin layer of Extra Fix to the end of the coving where it will meet the next piece. This will give an ultra high strength join and prevent any cracks appearing in the future if applied correctly, the join will be stronger than the actual coving piece itself.

Repeat the above process around the rest of the room. Use your finger, a filling knife and a damp paintbrush to smooth over, followed by a wet sponge to wipe off any remaining adhesive. Finally after allowing hours for the adhesive to dry, remove the nails and fill the holes as above.